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Showing posts from 2011

Give me Liberty or give me Liberty (ridge)

Robert H and I wanted training and practice. Soon we'll both be in Peru doing steep snow in the Cordillera Blanca. We also wanted to ski the steep snow. So we decided to make for the summit Rainier via the celebrated Liberty Ridge. A friend of Wendy E who crashed at our place said the snow was phat, and we were down with that! The forecast was good and the line was kickin, so we thought about stickin. We started off hiking in our boots. The snow was supposed to be good after maybe a mile, so we didn't want extra weight. Mistake 1. We maybe made it to within 1/2 mile of the Interglacier basin before we found continuous snow that was worth skinning on. We got to the basin, enjoyed watching ants of people slowly trudge up both St. Elmo's pass and the Integlacier, and made haste to St. Elmo's ourself. The top of the route came into view. We crossed the Winthrop roped because of some big-ish crevasses, headed over a rib and various snow and rock bounds and then found a w

It Gonna Rain!

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"The weather in the cascades is actually quite predictable. It is either raining, or just about to." -- Fred Beckey Especially in Spring. But with the opening of the Highway 20, how can anyone resist going into the Rugged North Cascades? Robert and I certainly couldn't, even thought the forecast called for light rain on Saturday, a light clouds/rain on Sunday and an uncertain forecast for Memorial day. We wanted something that would take three days, with a day of approach. Approaching in light rain won't be that bad, right? So it began a not-quite-epic weekend has led me to a higher appreciation of the term 'water proof'. We started in light mist, in high spirits. With not much to slow down our skinning. The higher we went, the colder, cloudier, and snowier it got. Easy Pass offered a break for food, grey mistiness. And enough time to let our imaginations run wild with the sound of liquid rock and snow shooting down the North face acros

Vuelta de los abismos

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Shuksan. North Cascades Gem. Its steep and glorious north/northwest face is a classic ski descent, via any route. And new routes and variations appear every year, it seems. One week ago, Dan skied a line that had been obvious to all who desire steep. The line doesn't even have a proper name yet. I learned this right before convincing Robert to join in the project. Makes it easier, knowing that it is possible. But now, I'm in my bivy looking up at the wild stars. They're better when Bellingham's lights go to sleep. I should sleep too... alas, I don't seem to be able to sleep before going up Shuksan. And the last time I skied was 3 months ago, on Shuksan . Then shoulder surgery. Then recovering. Then some climbing. Then no climbing. Stupid shoulder. Stupid cars hitting bicyclists. Its 1am. I'll be skiing tomorrow instead. Something steep. I'll have to practice skiing again. In my mind. I imagine jump turning, the steepness, the route.  Its 2. Maybe? I'm

Shuksan NW Couloir

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Sleepy. Thats how I feel. With good reason. Its 3:00 in the morning and I have had ~3 hours of sleep. Climbing at Stone followed by great camaraderie at Tuesday-night Tacos does not make an early bed-time easy. Its time for some coffee... Robert pulls into my driveway, and we throw my ski gear in next to Richards snowshoes and cameras he’s testing. I plop in the back seat, and the excited discussion about everything begins. I want sleep. The conversation is interesting. No dice for shut-eye. We get to the parking lot. We point Richard in the direction of Heather Meadows and the Ski-patrol for more information on the mountain: a first time snowshoer does not want to be following us. Throw on cloths, boots, skin our skis, pick up our packs and go. Its 7:20am. Only the dawn-sun is up. No need for headlamps: the snow makes everything brighter. I’m skinning over an avy-debris field. This is the worst part of the approach. Fortunately there’s maybe five inches of fresh atop the s